As the Calcuttan soil emanates a rich petrichor of the post afternoon rains, the transient clouds tread the overcast sky haphazardly and the faint sound of thunder reverberates in the air, I am overwhelmed with a sense of nostalgia. My mind sojourns to the monsoon in the misty mountains of Druk Yul and my olfactory cells recollect the scent of pine cones and the mossy earth drenched in sweet rain, and I am once again teleported to this magical land (like most often I am) that I had left about two years ago.
Having spent thirteen years in Bhutan, the essence and aura exuded by the Bhutanese mountains has long ago crept into my blood and eventually Bhutan has become home and, a sanctuary for my soul.
Nestled in the high Himalayas, a nation knitted along the principles of Gross National Happiness (GNH), guided by magnanimous Monarchs and a young and dynamic democracy and also, a land immune to the ravages of materialism and worldliness, Bhutan can be truly heralded as a paradise in today’s materialistic world.
Throughout my journey in Bhutan, my life has amazingly amalgamated with the Bhutanese lifestyles. I have discovered the true definitions of happiness; happiness in trekking through arduous trails just to gaze at awe-inspiring star studded skies, happiness in simply sipping a hot cup of butter tea at an altitude of 4,000 meters while listening to ancient Buddhist tales narrated by crimson robbed monks against a backdrop of a violet and crimson tinged sky, and sometimes the same tales in rather mundane history classes. Happiness in gazing at the national flag fluttering in a cerulean blue sky while singing the national anthem of a foreign land during school assemblies with pride. Happiness in having lived in a land where the King, rather than leading a cloistered life behind the ramparts of his palace, steps out and works tirelessly for His people, even now as the world grapples with a pandemic.
In Bhutan, I have always enjoyed hiking up to monasteries tucked in the mountains. I have been to the sacred Tiger’s Nest; a 17th century temple perched precariously on a steep cliff, Talakha; from where every awe inspiring nuance of the Thimphu town is visible, Lungchuste; whose path is embroidered with a plethora of rhododendrons, and the monastery: hidden between the clouds, Phajoding, which definitely has a mystical home feeling in its atmosphere, the more hidden Dodeydrak and Thradak Goenpa and many others. The religious chanting, the invigorating music of the Bhutanese drums and cymbals, the slighter melancholic tone of the long slender horns, and a hundred butter lamps lit in these shrines to banish darkness, make these monasteries emanate a sense of serenity and perpetual tranquillity like no place other.
Some of the other highlights of my years in Bhutan include the School trek in 2018 to Jomolhari Base Camp, an ethereal place set somewhere between the soaring mountains of Paro. It was a four- day gruelling hike to altitudes as high as 4,300m, through forests teeming with Himalayan wildlife, roaring rivers, cascading waterfalls and on paths carpeted in rich Himalayan flora and sometimes on barren, jagged landscapes. I still remember spending the day in Jangothang, surrounded by tall, tanned mountains on three sides and the snowy peak of Mt. Jomolhari jutting out of a canopy of clouds on the other, and being moved to tears while watching the sun blaze down on the mountains with incandescent rays; such a mesmerizing setting that was! The people there too retained a rich aura in my heart, their chapped cheeks and the smiles they wore on them was like warm sunlight glistening down on a rugged, frosty landscape.
Another such highlight was my trip to Bumthang. Its wide valleys and majestic mountains dotted with ancient monasteries and temples of great historical significance managed to caste a haunting spell on me. The thrill of the trip amplified when our return flight got cancelled for over a week and we had to take the unpaved murky roads, meandering through the giant mountains caressed by clouds to return. The 12 hour long road trip was indeed an adventure of its own, with unforgettable moments and some of the most magical sights.
Other little moments in the Kingdom, such as strolling in the courtyards of dzongs whose time tested colossal structures adorned with intricate designs remind the great past, meditating in the small caves above Dochula Pass and feeling enlightened (for a few seconds), circumambulating the Stupas on high mountain passes and feeling a sense of great merit or simply prostrating in Memorial Chorten, have given me sheer joy and instilled a feeling of spirituality.
It’s not just the natural bounty and cultural richness of Bhutan that I have fallen in love for, but also simpler things like the vivid Thimphu town, with its roadside cafes, the momo shops and the Bhutanese cuisine whose flavors still linger on my taste palate, the quaint and cosy libraries, the museums and the nature park and even the symphony created by raindrops falling on tin roofs.
Another thing that I miss the most in Thimphu is my school, Druk, where I have studied
by middle school. I have been fortunate to have the best teachers who have nurtured me with immense care and guidance and also incredible Bhutanese friends. I miss those little moments in school like the lunch breaks where we allrsat down together offering prayers to God before we dived into our lunch boxes, those library periods, the Friday march-pasts to an old Dzongkha song, whose rhythm I still remember, the concert, the thrilling house debates, school rimdro and our favorite field trips.
However, what I treasure the most about Bhutan and its people is their generosity, simplicity, concern for the environment and happiness and contentment in little things. These deep rooted values are truly what set Bhutan apart from all the nations and I have indeed been very fortunate to imbibe some of these.
Though my journey in Bhutan was ephemeral, but the learning and the beautiful memories made in this beautiful Kingdom have indeed been eternally etched in my heart and I look forward to returning to this Shangri-La soon.
Drishana kundu
She is a student studying in grade 11 in The Newtown School, Kolkata. She is a nature lover, a hiking enthusiast and is also passionate about nature photography.